They produce too much roll-over bite when we need it least. A 3-link encourages the car to turn, we want to be going in the direction counter to our steering.
On the rear of the car we have a combination platter:
MM Panhard Bar, Bilstein Coilovers with 250lbs/in Eibach springs, and Battle Version Lower Control Arms. The rear ride height is set to the highest possible height at which the MM Panhard Bar can be leveled. We are running without a rear swaybar.
Up front things are a bit more simple:
Bilstein Coilovers with 500lbs/in Eibach springs, MM Caster/Camber plates, and RaceCraft 2" dropped spindles. The spindles are SN95 5-lug units. The front swaybar is a junkyard unit off a 4-cylinder car.
Planned, but not done yet:
Front Lower Control arms that eliminate the wheel interference and therefore provide us with much needed steering angle, an Eibach front swaybar, and some sort of upgrade to the power steering system.
HEY IF U GUYZ KNOW SOMEONE WHO HAS A SN197 STANG TAKE SOME MEASUREMENTS AND SEE IF IT WOULD BE DO ABLE TO CONVERT THE FOX'S MODIFIED MAC PHERESON SUSPENSION TO THE TRADITIONAL MAC PHERESON STRUT SETUP ON THE 05'S.THAT WOULD HELP GET SOME STEERING ANGLE, IF ITS POSSIBLE. JUSS A THOUGHT. I ALWAYS WANTED TO TRY IT. ALSO WHEN I GASKET PORTED MY INTAKE MANIFOLD AND SWITCHED TO A 70MM THROTTLE BODY, MY POWER BAND JUMPED UP ALMOST A 1000 RPM. SOO U MIGHT WANNA TRY THAT. MINE WILL KEEP PULLING NOW ALL THE WAY TO 5200 RPM BEFORE IT STARTS FLOATING THE VALVES, AND THATS WITH 230,000 MILES ON THE MOTOR.
just wanted to say the car is looking good , are you guys still running the rear upper control arms because i have heard the upper torque boxes are a weak part of the fox body, just curious if you do a way with them when you install the panhard bar and rear coilovers, i seen people do that so just wandering let me know, trying to get the best setup on my car just as you guys are too. thanks
Oh yeah, stay away from poly bushings on upper control arms! They cause the rear end to bind going around corners... which then stresses the already weak upper torque boxes.
These are the upper control arms... guess what the torque boxes looked like!
They have heim joints. The reason that I went with the Battle Version control arms is mostly to support the vendors who make parts specifically for drifting.
I know Alex personally and he works very hard to support drifting, he also make very high quality parts that he stands behind.
Now that we have been drifting the car for another year, I have been considering a 3-link. EVM Motorsports makes a setup, that I think I would like to try out. If we go this way, we may also need a rear swaybar and higher rear spring rates.
One guy on the corral was going on about how his EVO three link ripped his floor boards and stuff. The IRS can be cheap, ive missed out on a few if I only had a stock 99+ solid rear end to trade them.
My favorite part about the Torque-Arm Watts link combo is its adjustability. All I ever do to the rear end for adjustment is bump the watts link up or down on the diff cover- works just like putting a stiffer sway bar on it - I frickin love that thing. So simple.
They produce too much roll-over bite when we need it least. A 3-link encourages the car to turn, we want to be going in the direction counter to our steering.
I think.
:)
just curious but what kinda suspension do u guys have set up on that stang? just springs?
Slow5.0,
On the rear of the car we have a combination platter:
MM Panhard Bar, Bilstein Coilovers with 250lbs/in Eibach springs, and Battle Version Lower Control Arms. The rear ride height is set to the highest possible height at which the MM Panhard Bar can be leveled. We are running without a rear swaybar.
Up front things are a bit more simple:
Bilstein Coilovers with 500lbs/in Eibach springs, MM Caster/Camber plates, and RaceCraft 2" dropped spindles. The spindles are SN95 5-lug units. The front swaybar is a junkyard unit off a 4-cylinder car.
Planned, but not done yet:
Front Lower Control arms that eliminate the wheel interference and therefore provide us with much needed steering angle, an Eibach front swaybar, and some sort of upgrade to the power steering system.
We have a page were we are logging the parts that we use, but hopefully this gives some more specific answers to your question.
HEY IF U GUYZ KNOW SOMEONE WHO HAS A SN197 STANG TAKE SOME MEASUREMENTS AND SEE IF IT WOULD BE DO ABLE TO CONVERT THE FOX'S MODIFIED MAC PHERESON SUSPENSION TO THE TRADITIONAL MAC PHERESON STRUT SETUP ON THE 05'S.THAT WOULD HELP GET SOME STEERING ANGLE, IF ITS POSSIBLE. JUSS A THOUGHT. I ALWAYS WANTED TO TRY IT. ALSO WHEN I GASKET PORTED MY INTAKE MANIFOLD AND SWITCHED TO A 70MM THROTTLE BODY, MY POWER BAND JUMPED UP ALMOST A 1000 RPM. SOO U MIGHT WANNA TRY THAT. MINE WILL KEEP PULLING NOW ALL THE WAY TO 5200 RPM BEFORE IT STARTS FLOATING THE VALVES, AND THATS WITH 230,000 MILES ON THE MOTOR.
just wanted to say the car is looking good , are you guys still running the rear upper control arms because i have heard the upper torque boxes are a weak part of the fox body, just curious if you do a way with them when you install the panhard bar and rear coilovers, i seen people do that so just wandering let me know, trying to get the best setup on my car just as you guys are too. thanks
We are still running the stock rear upper control arms.
Are the B-Ver lowers equiped with spherical joints? Why do you run those instead of some, say, MM lowers?
Oh yeah, stay away from poly bushings on upper control arms! They cause the rear end to bind going around corners... which then stresses the already weak upper torque boxes.
These are the upper control arms... guess what the torque boxes looked like!



They have heim joints. The reason that I went with the Battle Version control arms is mostly to support the vendors who make parts specifically for drifting.
I know Alex personally and he works very hard to support drifting, he also make very high quality parts that he stands behind.
Alex is an awesome guy... hung out with him in chicago back in '05...cool laid back dude. I used to also work with his new bedfellow Yamaken.
I couldn't find anything for Stangs on www.battleversion.com
Yeah, he just made a set for us. Maximum Motorsports makes a similar setup:
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info...
Now that we have been drifting the car for another year, I have been considering a 3-link. EVM Motorsports makes a setup, that I think I would like to try out. If we go this way, we may also need a rear swaybar and higher rear spring rates.
I guess your thoughts changed on the 3 link setup? I decided im gonna go IRS on my car when I can afford too
Not changed completely, but I think with the proper setup it can work better then the crap that is on the back of the car right now.
I am sure the IRS setup can be made to work, it just seems like a lot of cash.
:)
One guy on the corral was going on about how his EVO three link ripped his floor boards and stuff. The IRS can be cheap, ive missed out on a few if I only had a stock 99+ solid rear end to trade them.
My favorite part about the Torque-Arm Watts link combo is its adjustability. All I ever do to the rear end for adjustment is bump the watts link up or down on the diff cover- works just like putting a stiffer sway bar on it - I frickin love that thing. So simple.
Post new comment