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Tire Rack- Revolutionizing Tire Buying

A few chassis and handling recommendations.

09-10-2007, 3:08 PM
fatchick1o9

I just thought I would pass along a few low cost recommendations that would help with making the car a little more consistent.

1) Polyurethane bushings. in the following locations:

- A-arms. To make the steering more consistent.

- Steering rack. So that it does not move during aggressive steering. I have 3 sets that I would be willing to donate to your project. 1 set of stock location. 2 sets of offset location. The offset bushings raise the rack up or down to help correct bumpsteer that is caused by the lowering of the car. Since you are using drop spindles you may not need to correct the tierods position if it is parallel to the A-arm. Either way. I will never use these 3 sets as I have used aluminum rack bushings. If you want them just let me know.

- Transmission Cross Member. Again, I have a set of new polyurethane X-member bushings that I will gladly donate to your project. Besides offering better support for the driveline, these bushings make the X-member into more of a lateral bracing structural component. I will never use mine as I opted for aluminum bushings in this location as well.

Structural recomendations:

1) Torque box reinforcement. The rear axle & suspension on our mustangs needs alot of attention, as you know. The points where the rear upper and lower control arms attach to the body need some love.

The lower torque box tends to twist and warp. So a lower torque box reinforcement will stabilize the attaching point. I was impressed with the improvment in just daily driving with just the lowers on.

The upper torque boxes have a nasty reputation for tearing off under extreme driving situations. An upper torque box reinforcment should go along ways towards keeping that sheetmetal in the back from flexing. And while you are under the car, you can seam weld the stock upper torque boxes.

-Subframe connectors. I know you guys have a 6 point rollcage already. But I think some subframe connectors to tie the front and rear frame together would be very important.

-Front Strut tower brace & Lower K-member brace. The front end of our cars like to twist more than Chubby Checker. I can't say which of these 2 would be most important to do first. But You may want to look into both of these items.

-Rear Shock Tower brace. This is kinda of a debated item. Some say "BULLSH*T", some say "DO IT". If your are running rear coilovers it falls into the "fairly important catergory". If just regular coil springs....well I would still do it as you can easily add structural integrity to the rear of the car. Since you are running a Hatchback I would consider it even more. The hatchbacks lack the structural integrity that the notchbacks have.

Here is a pic I found of a simple brace that is incorporated into a rollcage setup. Notice that the bar that goes across to the shock towers also has connecting points that tie it into the floor pan right above the rear frame rails.

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

have fun racing,
eric g.

P.S. if you want any of the polyurethane bushings just email me at fatchick1o9@nethere.com . I know it is not much to offer but if you guys (the drift50.com team) want them , there yours. glad to help any way I can.

‹ Converting fox to 5 bolt Drift Setup Help ›
09-11-2007, 7:53 AM
Geoffrey Chandler
Geoffrey Chandler's picture

Thanks for all the input.

We are actually already running poly up front including the rack bushings. The rear has rubber in the uppers and heimed lowers with a heimed panhard.

As for bracing:

fox cage

I can attest to the fact that this made the car feel much better out back. It is somewhat hard to see in the pic, but the main hoop connects to the sheetmetal directly above the torque boxes.

We certainly still need to stiffen up the nose of the car. I was looking at the bracing used in convertibles last time I was in the junkyard, and I think that some sort of brace is certainly in our future.

This is great feedback and participation.

  • reply
09-16-2007, 10:02 PM
FRANKEN_STANG

IF YOU NEED TO STIFFEN THE FRONT THESE ARE ALL TRIED AND TRUE METHODS. TAKE A LOOK....
Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting
Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting
Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting
Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

  • reply
09-16-2007, 10:05 PM
FRANKEN_STANG

OR EVEN EASIER. GET YOUR MIG WELDER OUT AND START SEEM WELDING EVERYTHING. ANY EDGE OF METAL YOU CAN SEE OVERLAPPING ANOTHER. LAP WELD IT. ITS PRETTY SIMPLE

  • reply
09-28-2007, 9:10 AM
fatchick1o9

Strut Tower Brace.

I was looking around and researching strut tower braces.

I decided on the Maximum Motorsports style. As it bolts into the firewall pinchweld which has 3 seperate pieces of sheetmetal that are bound together. The unidoby, the upper firewall and the lower firewall. And uses 3 bolts to tie into the strut tower. Instead of bolting through the single piece of sheetmetal under the vent louver and using 2 bolts to attach to the strut tower.

I think it might work better for you guys since you are looking at running a different intake.

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

Disregard the carb setup. It the only pic I had handy.
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

I also like the way it triangulates the strut tower relative to the body. Versus the other more common braces that move the triangulation point closer to the actual firewall.

Here is a picture of what I was trying to explain.

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

  • reply
09-28-2007, 11:24 AM
fatchick1o9

Uhhh....In my super-fancy drawing I meant to say "Green dashes = where the pivot point is...in theory".

I knew roll point was not the right term. I just brain farted.

  • reply
09-28-2007, 5:35 PM
FRANKEN_STANG

THE TOWER BRACE ISNT DESISNED TO STIFFEN THE AREA OF THE SUB FRAME YOUR DRAWING IS SHOWING. ITS DESIGNED TO KEEP THE SHOCK TOWERS FROM FLEXING IN AND OUT DURING HARD CORNERING. MY GUESS AS TO WHY MM DID THERE STB THAT WAY WAS MORE FOR EASE OF INSTALLATION. BECAUSE THE ONLY WAY THAT KIND OF TRIANGULATION WOULD WORK IS IF IT WAS DIRECTLY CONNECTED TO THE LOWER SUB FRAME. THE SUBFRAME IS ALSO BOXED IN WITH THE BODY GIVING IT MUCH MORE STRENGTH. SO I REALLY CANT SEE THAT DESIGN BEING ANY MORE EFFECTIVE THAN SO CALLED GENERIC DESIGNS

  • reply
11-06-2007, 2:50 AM
James T. (not verified)

Have you guys checked into a battery relocation, not sure how it'll help a drift car, but I'm sure it would help some with the front/rear weight issues you were talkign about. Also, control arms, at least box in the factory uppers, these will help take a lot of the flex out of the rear. I just upgraded the bushings to poly, and it made a huge difference

  • reply
12-11-2007, 2:56 AM
CashiusCasualty

or you could swap in an IRS.. lol jk

  • reply
12-11-2007, 8:42 AM
Geoffrey Chandler
Geoffrey Chandler's picture

Haha, I am actually putting together an IRS 4 cylinder Mustang in my mind. I am sure it will be a few years before I actually do anything, but I envision a turbo 4 cylinder 1990 notchback with GT aero and an IRS. Vista Blue Metallic and Silver du-tone.

  • reply

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Tire Rack- Revolutionizing Tire Buying

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