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Calling Dan Pina
10-21-2008, 11:48 AM
hey dan what Castor camber and toe settings do you run on your car
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hey dan what Castor camber and toe settings do you run on your car
Well,
Car #1 has a shit load of castor. It started as 9.5 degrees, but we backed it down to about 8.5 degrees. Toe is set at Zero, if you run stock control arms, rubber bushings, etc, I'd suggest a 1/16" - 1/32" toe in. Camber is maxed at about 2.5 to 3 degrees (I'd have to double check my alignment sheet from GR).
The rear is full negative, with 1/16" toe out-- HA HA HA, just kidding.
Car #2 isnt yet determined, but the toe and camber should be roughly the same. I think the Castor is far less, but hopefully atleast 5.5 degrees. In my opinion, 5 degrees is the minimum castor you'd want in a drift car. Remember, castor greatly effects your scrub radius. You'll definately feel the car move up and down with more castor (which if you think about it, helps during drifting, by moving weight onto the counter steering tire).
I've researched (and driven) just about every type of drift car (including S13s, S14s, Skylines, and Miatas) in competition, and the sweet spot for castor seems to be around 7 degrees. The trick is to max your castor without increasing your lower control arm width (by pushing the castor links forward). I was rubbing my castor links at 9.5 degrees, so I backed the castor links back about 1/4" and havent touched them since. Again, a good low offset wheel and spacer will help with this.
dan what the hell is a castor link?
http://www.griggsracing.com/index.php?cPath=4332_4312_4359_2015_3250
Griggs makes a 2 piece arm that allows for the adjustment of castor on the arm. Adjusting the castor will also have an impact on the camber. It's my understanding that a longer link == more castor and more camber.
Thats right. These are exactly the arms on Drift Patrol #1. The castor link is the aluminum tube pictured here. On my car, we used slightly longer SN-95 peices to push the castor forward. Imagine the aluminum rods about an inch long, and how that would make the triangle larger. Thats where you run into steering angle issues. The heim joints (gold) are threaded, and therefore adjustable. We backed these in about 1/4 inch, making the lower control arm just a bit more narrow, no longer having any rub issues but still having a ton of castor.
cool thanks dan, i'll try that out on the car
Just for reference, we are trying out 3.25 degree of castor, 3 degrees negative camber and zero toe on our Mustang. So far it seems to be working reasonably well, but more track time is needed to make a proper determination.
Whatever the alignment settings were for HTM, I'd say they worked :)
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